2020 Eggbeater Owners Manual
Printable Cleat Fitting Tool (EB 2, 3, 11)
Printable Cleat Fitting Tool (EB 1)
Cleat Fitting Guidelines
Shoe to Pedal Interface Troubleshooting
Pedal Warranty Explained
Eggbeater Contact Sleeve Installation
Eggbeater 1 Exploded View
Eggbeater 2 Exploded View
Eggbeater 3 Exploded View
Eggbeater 11 Exploded View
Maintenance 50-75 Hours of Ride Time - Eggbeaters with Slotted End Caps
Maintenance 50-75 Hours of Ride Time - Eggbeaters with Hex End Caps
Overhaul 150-200 Hours of Ride Time - Eggbeater 11
Overhaul 150-200 Hours of Ride Time - Eggbeater 3
Overhaul 150-200 Hours of Ride Time - Eggbeater 2
Titanium Refresh Kit Instructions
Long Spindle Kit Instructions
Titanium Spindle Kit Instructions (Refer to Titanium Refresh Kit Instructions)
3 Hole Cleat Manual
Refresh Kit Chart
Spindle Compatibility Chart & Identifier
Eggbeater Technical DocumentsFollow
2020 Eggbeater Owners Manual
If I have a pair of Eggbeaters 3, and Candy 2 the wings on the candies are beat up and mishapen. Can I swap over the platform form the candy to the eggbeaters?
The bodies on the Candys won't be compatible with the Eggbeaters, but you can have the wings replaced on the Candy 2s if you wanted to go that route. I'd recommend making a RA(return authorization) on the website and you'll be put directly in touch with a technician that can give you some options.
I have a pair of Eggbeaters 1. The tread on my shoes is pretty deep. I am using the shoe shields as a more durable shim option, but I think I need to add another to each shoe. Is it possible to double-up on the shoe shields, the same way you would with the plastic shims?
Yes you can stack shoe shields but I'd recommend trying the shims first. Stacking 2 shields on one shoe can be a bit excessive, stacking a standard plastic shoe shim with the shield is a better combination and should present the same result. You should have a pair of plastic shims that would have been included with your cleats, but if not, you can request them using the link below.
Is it possible to stack more than 2 shims? I stacked the plastic shim with my shoe shield & I’m still having trouble getting it clipped in.
Yes, you can stack 3 shims but it's recommended to use the shield as the base. Stacking 3 plastic shims might cause some curling of the shims which could interfere with engagement, the metal shield will provide a nice base for the shims to prevent curling. You can test this fit by using both shims on one shoe, if your pedals fit with the shield and 2 shims, you can request 2 additional shims for the other shoe.
I have older Eggbeater 11s. Both the 3 ti and the 4 ti. On the 4 ti, my foot has been unclipping uncontrollably on rough sections of trails. My cleats are relatively new so I am wondering if the Springs/cleat "wings" are worn out. Do you have a replacement for the wing body or do your have an cost/upgrade program that I can either fix or trade in toward a new pair? Thanks.
I also find using the shoe shield and one shim a perfect height for the cleat. My question is should the shim be against the shoe sole and the shield on top of it followed by the cleat or should the shield be first on the shoe sole with the shim on top of that followed by the cleat?
Both of those models are very old at this point, I think they we're discontinued about 11 years ago. It's very likely that they are worn out, but without seeing them I can't say for sure. As policy, we cannot repair pedals of that age, so we offer a trade in discount on a new set of pedals. For details, create an RA# on our website and you'll be put in touch with one of our technicians. https://crankbrothers.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new?ticket_form_id=114093968634
I'd say the shield should be up against the shoe and the shim would sit on top. This will prevent dirt from building up under the shield, since it is considerably larger than the shim. It's also less abrasive on the pedals wings since its metal against plastic rather then metal against metal.
I have the refresh kit to freshen up my other pair of eggbeater 3 and the spindle nut on one of them is not coming out. It's spinning and not able to remove it. Need your help and recommendation please. I've been doing this kit upgrade on my other eggbeater 3 and this is the first time this happen.
Sounds like it may be a stripped spindle nut but I can't be entirely sure without seeing it. There is a method to removing stripped spindle nuts which involves forcing the spindle and body apart while you unthread the spindle nut. I can provide more details on this if you'd like, create an RA using the link below and you can continue this conversation with a technician.
How do you remove the outboard outer bear race after the bearing has come apart during removal? A mechanic had previously used a puller of some kind, but the one I just spoke to evidently does know much about this. Could you provide a link to a suitable puller. This happens often enough that it's worth buying one. Thanks.
Most of the time a tech would use a dental pick with a curved tip, you can hook one side by the bearing race and budge it slightly, then repeat that on the other side. Walking the race out on each side till it drops out. We do use a bearing pull for he heavily corroded bearings, however. It's odd that this is happening during rebuilds, the bearing isn't in there very tight as it's meant to be held in by the end cap. Send me an email if you want, I can help verify the pedal internals you're using are up to date. Evan@crankbrothers.com
I have the same issue that Mark had a year ago - The outer bearing came apart while riding and now the outer race is stuck in the sleeve. I have soaked the pedal in DB-blaster and tried warming and cooling the pedal but nothing has worked. I have a o-ring puller (pick) that gets good purchase on the race but it is stuck in there. It may have expanded a bit as the bearing sheared apart while riding and is also likely corroded. (The other side popped out with no issue) I was wondering about an expanding puller. I see there is a company called bearingprotools in UK that makes a tool, but nothing is shown to fit a 6x13x5 bearing. Do you have any suggestion on a suitable pulling tool?
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